Changes

===Notes relating to software use===

===Notes relating to software use===

*Zoom in and out: middle scroll button

'''Zoom in and out''': middle scroll button

*To distinguish layers, you may choose different colours at the bottom of the software

 

**Note that a large number of layers (20+) may cause issues with the software.  Save often!  

To distinguish '''layers''', you may choose different colours at the bottom of the software

*Engrave: the laser fills in the area completely

::Note that a large number of layers (20+) may cause issues with the software.  Save often!  

*Cut: traces the design

 

*Grade engrave: engraves stuff with a curve on the inside edge (e.g., makes a bathtub groove inside the engraved area)

'''Engrave''': the laser fills in the area completely

*Datum = move the laser to the top right corner of the bed (go back home)

 

*Press CNTL on the keyboard to preserve aspect ratio when resizing

'''Cut''': traces the design

*Press size (button on the left side) to set the exact dimensions.

 

*You can change the position of the laser z and y, use z for moving the bed up and down

'''Grade engrave''': engraves stuff with a curve on the inside edge (e.g., makes a bathtub groove inside the engraved area)

*You can uncheck layers - this is helpful if you have a bounding box and you can check off this laser when you are ready to cut your designs.  The size and scale of your design is maintained when layers are turned off.

 

*Press laser to just have a pulse of laser shoot the material to help you with positioning  

'''Datum''' = move the laser to the top right corner of the bed (go back home)

*Soft stop error: When the design is off the bed on the laser, you may receive a soft stop error on the green screen on the laser cutter (not on the desktop/software). If you receive this error, then press the clear button and then figure out what went wrong (usually a positioning error or an origin error). When you determine the issue, then redownload and start the laser

 

*When doing cuts for hard or deep materials, you may indicate that you want to cut the material more than once (scroll right when you are setting the speed and power).

Press CNTL on the keyboard to preserve '''aspect ratio''' when resizing

*The BAD!!! button is no longer bad for the laser.  Avoid pressing it for karmic reasons.  :)

 

*If you see a “soft dog” error, then check the USB connection at the back of the computer since it might be loose.

Press '''size''' (button on the left side) to set the exact dimensions

*Conner power = corner cut power; you may want to adjust how strong your laser is set depending on the type of material, effect, etc. you desire.

 

*Scan gap = the scan gap is how close your line is during engraving. This number is typically at 0.05 to 0.1 (refer to reference material lasered on birch plywood next to laser).

You can change the '''position''' of the laser z and y, use z for moving the bed up and down

*Unit tolerance = usually 0.010

 

*Scaling

You can uncheck '''layers''' - this is helpful if you have a bounding box and you can check off this laser when you are ready to cut your designs.  The size and scale of your design is maintained when layers are turned off.

**Sometimes, the scale of your file is not faithfully transferred from one software to the other, even though the files are in the same format (e.g., Inkscape). To ensure that your file is the right size, use a bounding box. Make a bounding box by drawing a rectangle around the entire outside of the design in Inkscape. Record the dimensions of that box in millimeters, and then import the file into Adobe Illustrator (AI). In AI, select everything in the laser software and then resize it to the recorded dimension of the rectangle/bounding box so that your design is also the desired size. Make sure that the rulers are set to millimeters in AI as well.  Once the bounding box is the correct size, then you may delete the bounding box, leaving your design at the correct size. Export the file from AI, and then import it into the laser cutter software.

 

*Engrave options

'''Press laser''' to just have a pulse of laser shoot the material to help you with positioning  

**Scan gap= the distance between lines in an engraved area

 

**Bi dir= bi directional, disable for plastics if you are running into heat issues on your material, for example bending or warping.

'''Soft stop error''': When the design is off the bed on the laser, you may receive a soft stop error on the green screen on the laser cutter (not on the desktop/software). If you receive this error, then press the clear button and then figure out what went wrong (usually a positioning error or an origin error). When you determine the issue, then redownload and start the laser

*Cut option

 

**Power = is in percentage. 100 power means that the laser is firing at 100% and you can get the laser to cut from 12<p<100%. Note that the power is non-linear

When doing cuts for '''hard or deep materials''', you may indicate that you want to cut the material more than once (scroll right when you are setting the speed and power).

**Speed=speed is calculated by mm/min. The lower the speed cut, the slower the laser so the cut may become deeper

 

**When achieving your desired results, try adjusting the speed of the laser cutter before the power. The speed typically determines how deep of the cut/engraving. If you have fine details to engrave limit to 350mm/s and adjust the power instead.

The '''BAD!!! button''' is no longer bad for the laser.  Avoid pressing it for karmic reasons.  :)

**Corner power= important for plastic so that you don't overheat plastic along the corners

 

*Icons at the top of the software:

If you see a '''“soft dog”''' error, then check the USB connection at the back of the computer since it might be loose.

**Ruler: Use to measure distances (?)

 

**Clock: Estimate the work time required for the laser cutter. Note that the time estimated is usually too conservative and off by 10-20%.

'''Conner power''' = corner cut power; you may want to adjust how strong your laser is set depending on the type of material, effect, etc. you desire.

 

'''Scan gap''' = the scan gap is how close your line is during engraving. This number is typically at 0.05 to 0.1 (refer to reference material lasered on birch plywood next to laser).

 

Unit tolerance = usually 0.010

 

===Scaling===

 

Sometimes, the scale of your file is not faithfully transferred from one software to the other, even though the files are in the same format (e.g., Inkscape). To ensure that your file is the right size, use a bounding box. Make a bounding box by drawing a rectangle around the entire outside of the design in Inkscape. Record the dimensions of that box in millimeters, and then import the file into Adobe Illustrator (AI). In AI, select everything in the laser software and then resize it to the recorded dimension of the rectangle/bounding box so that your design is also the desired size. Make sure that the rulers are set to millimeters in AI as well.  Once the bounding box is the correct size, then you may delete the bounding box, leaving your design at the correct size. Export the file from AI, and then import it into the laser cutter software.

 

===Engrave options===

 

'''Scan gap''' = the distance between lines in an engraved area

 

'''Bi dir''' = bi directional, disable for plastics if you are running into heat issues on your material, for example bending or warping.

 

===Cut option===

'''Power''' = is in percentage. 100 power means that the laser is firing at 100% and you can get the laser to cut from 12<p<100%. Note that the power is non-linear

 

'''Speed''' = speed is calculated by mm/min. The lower the speed cut, the slower the laser so the cut may become deeper

::When achieving your desired results, try adjusting the speed of the laser cutter before the power. The speed typically determines how deep of the cut/engraving. If you have fine details to engrave limit to 350mm/s and adjust the power instead.

 

''''Corner power''' = important for plastic so that you don't overheat plastic along the corners

 

Icons at the top of the software:

::'''Ruler''': Use to measure distances (?)

::'''Clock''': Estimate the work time required for the laser cutter. Note that the time estimated is usually too conservative and off by 10-20%.

====Notes relating to materials you can use to cut in the laser cutter:====

====Notes relating to materials you can use to cut in the laser cutter:====

*Flat materials are ideal and strongly recommended.  Warped materials can be flattened with magnets, but use them with extreme caution.  Magnets in the path of the laser can damage the nozzle.  Material that is cut can warp up into the path of the laser nozzle also causing damage.  Flat material is best!

 

*Circular materials can be cut using the rotary attachment, reach out on the laser channel for help setting it up.

'''Flat materials''' are ideal and strongly recommended.  Warped materials can be flattened with magnets, but use them with extreme caution.  Magnets in the path of the laser can damage the nozzle.  Material that is cut can warp up into the path of the laser nozzle also causing damage.  Flat material is best!

*Some common materials used by the laser cutter include acrylic, MDF, plywood, etc. at 3-4mm in thickness.

 

*Due to the variation in materials from manufacturer, humidity, density, etc., you should do test batches to ensure the desired results.

'''Circular materials''' can be cut using the rotary attachment, reach out on the laser channel for help setting it up.

 

*Max size is 60x90 cm or 2’ x 3’

Some '''common materials''' used by the laser cutter include acrylic, MDF, plywood, etc. at 3-4mm in thickness.

 

Due to the '''variation in materials''' from manufacturer, humidity, density, etc., you should do test batches to ensure the desired results.

 

'''Max size''' is 60x90 cm or 2’ x 3’

 

 

{| class="wikitable"

{| class="wikitable"

|-

|-

*Central Industrial

*Central Industrial

|}

|}

*Acrylic (PMMA): There are two types of acrylic: extruded vs cast. Both cut cleanly, but will produce different results on engraving

'''Acrylic''' (PMMA): There are two types of acrylic: extruded vs cast. Both cut cleanly, but will produce different results on engraving

::Extruded plastics engraved properly will leave a clear finish on top, which is not easy to see on it’s own, and will not edge light. It can also produce a white floss (the white whispy strings of plastic coming off the surface) during the engraving process.

::'''Extruded plastics''' engraved properly will leave a clear finish on top, which is not easy to see on it’s own, and will not edge light. It can also produce a white floss (the white whispy strings of plastic coming off the surface) during the engraving process.

::Cast acrylic will make a shiny reflective surface on top that is obvious and visible and will edge light nicely.

::'''Cast acrylic''' will make a shiny reflective surface on top that is obvious and visible and will edge light nicely.

*Burn marks: Burns marks might appear behind the cut. To protect the surface of your material, you can tape (use painter’s tape) on the back of the material. If you are cutting a plastic board, then keep the film that it came in on the plastic board to protect the back from creating white floss.

*Burn marks: Burns marks might appear behind the cut. To protect the surface of your material, you can tape (use painter’s tape) on the back of the material. If you are cutting a plastic board, then keep the film that it came in on the plastic board to protect the back from creating white floss.